Fes Tannery: What To Know Before You Go
The Fes Tannery, known locally as “Chouara Tannery,” is nestled within the vibrant medina of Fes, Morocco. This ancient site is home to one of the oldest tannery complexes in the world, where you can experience traditional leather production methods still in use today.
Knowing what to expect and how to get there will make your visit to the tannery more enjoyable. This quick guide equips you with everything you need to know for a fantastic and memorable experience at the Fes Tannery in Morocco.
First...Know A Bit About the Tannery's Very Long History
The history of Fes Tannery is more than just a story of leather; it is a story of tradition, art, and cultural identity. It's an essential part of the Moroccan history in Fes.
The Fes Tannery dates back to the 11th century when leather processing became popular. Fes became a central trade hub for leather, likely paralleling the city's growth. At its peak, thousands of artisans worked at the tannery.
Today, the Fes Tannery employs about 200 men.
The craft of leather making has been passed down through generations and is an integral part of Fes’s cultural heritage. Traditional techniques of dyeing and tanning leather have persisted throughout centuries, and today, they are still alive and well at the Tannery.
The Leather Tanning Process - Using Ancient Techniques in Fes, Morocco
Let's start by saying that this ancient tanning technique has existed here in Fes for over a thousand years.
A tannery is where animal skins are cured and turned into leather. At the Fes Tannery, leather is made from the skins of camels, cows, sheep, and goats.
The process begins by first cleaning and softening the hides using a powerful combination of quicklime, salt, water, cow urines, and pigeon poop (yes, you read that right!). The ammonia in the animal droppings helps soften the animal skins, which allows them to absorb the dye. The process is arduous and toxic.
The first part of the tanning process has a strong, boldly pungent, sour smell, which turns many tourists off. Perhaps I was too distracted by the process to notice, but the odor soon became part of the experience. Even more, I began to develop the utmost respect for the workers deep in the vats to even think about complaining about the odor.
After curing and softening, the hides are colored. The colors are vibrant indigo and red, with some earth tones. Natural plant dyes are used, including poppy for red, orange for henna, saffron for yellow, and indigo for blue. The workers get into the stone pits filled with dyes to massage the skins with their feet to ensure the color spreads evenly.
The finished pieces are then sold to designers and clothing makers or exported.
It's important to note that no machinery is involved in the tanning process; manual labor employs skills passed down from medieval times.
The tannery environment, filled with open pits of vibrant dyes, creates a functional area and a stunning visual that captures visitors. Leatherwork is highly valued in Morocco, and the craftsmanship at the Fes Tannery is often considered a true art form.
Inside The Fes Medina & How To Find The Fes Tannery
A medina is the center of historical cities, typically in Northern Africa. A large wall surrounds it, and it is generally car-free. In many medinas in Morocco, you will find donkeys, motorcycles, and bicycles as a form of transportation, but most people move about on foot.
Finding the Fes Tannery in the medina is no easy task. The Fes Medina is one of the world's oldest and largest pedestrian zones. It has 9,454 cobblestone alleyways, 300 mosques, and is 1200 years old! You can indeed get lost in it. GPS on your phone works...sort of. Helpful guides are everywhere to help you navigate...for a cost.
The easiest way to experience the Chauoara Tannery is to hire a licensed local tour guide. You can easily spend an entire day in the Fes Medina.
If a guide isn't your thing, you can use a guidebook map and head toward Fes el Bali (the oldest medina quarter near the Saffarin Madrasa.)
What To Expect When You Arrive At The Tannery
Upon arrival, you are offered a sprig of mint to counter the pending odor. Cover your nose with it if needed, but the experience will soon help soften the smell.
You will venture through several floors of store merchandise on your way to view the tannery production facility from the balcony. Salesmen will be eager to greet you and draw your attention to the countless leather products. A simple "no thank you" seemed enough to allow me to meander to the balcony.
After you see the tanning process, you will retrace your steps through the leather shop. You will find shoes, jackets, purses, bags, slippers, wallets, trousers, poofs, footstools, belts, and more.
The craftsmanship and quality of the products are exquisite. If you are a leather lover, you will experience it like a kid in a candy shop. But here, be sure to use your bargaining skills!
Conservation, Economic, and Modern Challenges
Visiting Fes Tannery is a journey through time, allowing you to appreciate artisans and their craft, which shape Fes's identity in the modern world. The story here is more than how they tan leather; it is a story of tradition, art, and culture.
However, it is not without its challenges to the local environment, toxic runoff into waterways, and adverse health effects for workers. Synthetic alternatives, such as vegan leather and other eco-friendly options, are also gaining popularity as alternatives to animal skins.
Recognizing the Fes Tannery's importance, regional organizations and governments have taken action to preserve its rich history, minimize environmental impacts, and inspire a new generation of skilled leather crafters.
A Few Etiquette Tips
It's crucial to respect local customs when visiting the Fes Tannery:
Respect the workers. Always be polite. The artisans take pride in what they do.
Bargain wisely. If you want to buy leather goods, remember to negotiate. Approach it as a friendly exchange.
Do not touch products. For hygiene and craftsmanship reasons, do not touch items unless you are serious about buying them.
Be mindful of privacy. Some areas may be off-limits. Always heed your guide's directions.
These guidelines help to ensure everyone has a good experience.
Some Final Thoughts About The Fes Tannery Experience
Visiting the Fes Tannery is an opportunity to immerse yourself in Moroccan culture and craftsmanship.
Whether you are intrigued by the leather production process, eager to shop for unique souvenirs, or simply wishing to experience this ancient tradition, the Fes Tannery will indeed offer an unforgettable glimpse into Moroccan heritage.
Until next time,
Marla
Visit my Moroccan Art Gallery Collection for more images of this beautiful African country.